Arrived in Tajikistan - once again!

Hello Everyone,

I'm here, arrived in Dushanbe.! The flight got in at 3:30 am, but the airport didn't seem to expect us, because we waited on a packed bus that was driving us to the room that houses both the two luggage carousels, three windows/boxes for passport check and the immigration room. As some of you may know, I didnt have a visa when I arrived here! I can't imagine something more annoying than to arrive to a new place with no idea where you're going to live, who precisely is waiting for you, and how to get a visa when you're at the border. In any case, I waited on a line for about an hour and just as I was at the desk, I read a paper on the desk of the official which said in Russian letters, "Karin Andrew", I exclaimed that it was mine! I was really grateful to have seen that letter because they wouldn't otherwise perhaps have known who I was. In any case, I then got the visa put into the passport and sent into another room, where I handed over some more documents left for me, and the visa was signed and stamped. This was despite the fact that I didn't even have with me a photo. The official looked at me and said, "well, I need a photo, so what are we going to do?" I said, I didn't know and pretended to look for one. A minute later I exclaimed again that I had no photo. I sat back down, and was nonetheless issued a stamped visa. Apparently, the photo wasn't needed after all. Unfortunately for those of us arriving from Istanbul, we were only ten minutes before a second flight from Yekaterinburg. That flight though, mostly emigrant workers from Tajikistan, returning home from their jobs abroad, was definitely not the airport's priority. They had to wait until everyone from the Istanbul flight got through the passport check. And by wait, I mean they stood locked outside the glass doors of the passport check room for forty minutes with their noses pressed to the glass. By the time I got out of the visa room, I had to wait behind fifty men who smelled quite bad from their journey. Nonetheless, all the passengers from the Istanbul flight were still waiting for their luggage which was only then slowly coming out on the carousel. I left with my luggage shortly, to where they carefully made sure I had the right suitcase picked up. I politely told a British man that he was waiting behind the workers who were getting thorough customs inspections and that he had to push through the people towards the tiny door opening. He didn't believe me until I passed right by him, and the door guard let me through. As soon as I left the room, housing all the services, I was bombarded by men trying to take my luggage. One man, probably just wanting to assist me coming down a ramp, tried to grab my large red suitcase, but I yelled NO in some language or other and gave him a really bad look. I walked around the airport exit for about two minutes cursing myself because I didn't know if the people were there waiting for me or not, but soon enough, two very young guys asked me if I was Karin. I never thought the organizer of this adventure would be 25 or so, but it seems all the employees of this Bureau here are around 30 or much younger - some just out of college. That at least makes for a nice and relaxed working environment. They took me to my temporary apartment, which is near the main street Rudaki but a good thirty minutes by tram or bus to the office. I am alone just now in this apartment, and I really hate more than anything else being alone in a strange apartment. Last night I met some americans on the ACCELS program I went on last summer and I hope to possibly live with one of them...but it would mean paying upwards of 150 to 400 myself. Now, I am paying 15 dollars a night, which is exorbitant for Dushanbe. I also have the option of paying less and living far far out by the airport with a lady (sounds like your situation last year Mahdi) or with my old host family. I went this morning to see my host mother at her office. I didnt tell her that I was coming here or to her office, so the look on her face was priceless. Of course, she insisted that I go to her house that night and stay there, but I can't imagine being there once again. She also keeps offering to kick out their neighbor from the apartment they own on the first floor. As cool as that would be, I can't imagine making a Tajik person homeless on account of my wanting to save some money.
The Bureau is located in a great building - just next to the medical institute. I can't wait to take some photos for you. I wish I could live walking distance to work, as that would take the edge off the day. Can't believe that today is only my second day as well. I went to an expat dinner last night, which happens every Thursday at a different restaurant, and it was only because it was my first night that the many americans/euros took sympathy on me and helped me find my new apartment, which I had 'lost'. Yes, I actually lost it. I started walking to the restaurant but got completely and utterly lost. Everything in Dushanbe is like a ten minute walk// IF you go in the right direction. It didn't help that those who showed me my new apartment had absolutely no idea what the address was. We eventually read a sign that was completely faded, from before the war, that said, "krasni partisan" or "red partisan"...but no good now, as nobody in this city knows either the old or the new street names. I really have been wondering whether the conditions of these buildings once were good and then went terribly wrong or if they were always shabby to the extreme. It seems that the Tajiks work hard to keep their individual apartments in good shape, but the hallways and entrances to the buildings are scary! /especially when there is no lighting and the stairs are uneven. I have also embarrassed myself by refusing to take the elevator to our office on the 6th floor., but the elevator is really too much for me! As much as I took old Czech elevators years ago, I just know these are fifty times worse. This morning the guard at the front door saw me walking to the stairs and he started yelling in russian, "the elevators work! the elevators work!". I found out that he actually was screaming this because they work only one day in three, and he reasonably thought that I reasonably assumed they were broken. I think I will keep that assumption. Yesterday though, the elevator gods returned the favor by allowing me to trip UP the stairs on the way to the office. Thank God I didn't go flying too hard on the marble steps. I'm also grateful I bought travel insurance.
Tomorrow at 8 am the Office will be running a human rights training for Police Officers in the Varzob. I am excited about this, should be very fun!!
Also: Had lunch at a government cafeteria. Excellent.
And saw there my farsi professor from last summer. It reminded me how Tajik his Farsi accent is. :)
We speak 90% Russian at the office. I have been shy to speak, but it's all that's spoken around me. The police training will be in Russian.
'Til Later! Happy Ramadan!